IVAN LACKOVIC CROATA
Christmas in Croatia
IVAN LACKOVIC CROATA (TRADITIONAL CROATIAN CHRISTMAS CAROL)
Celebrating Christmas has been a prominent festivity among Croats
dating back to the ninth century when Croats accepted Christianity.
A noteworthy document from 879 is a letter of Pope John VIII in
which he recognized the Croatian state under Prince Branimir.
Traditionally a holiday when families get together, for Croats,
Christmas is also the time to remember the role the Catholic church
has played in the development of Croatian national identity. Faith,
along with culture, identity, language and beliefs, preserved
Croatia's national identity during the centuries-long strife when
the nation was divided and ruled by different regimes. Crushing
that faith as a means of conquest was a tactic different invaders
used over the centuries. The most recent attempt occurred
in 1991, during the Homeland war, when the Yugoslav army and Serbian
paramilitaries demolished over 1200 churches across Croatia in
an attempt to erase symbols of Croatian identity and culture.
Although valuable cultural heritage was destroyed, they failed
to subjugate the Croat nation. Instead, Croats emerged as victors
and succeeded in establishing a sovereign and independent Croatia
for the first time in a thousand years.
Due to different geographical and historical influences, varying
Christmas customs have developed over the centuries, such as variations
in carols, sayings, dishes, and decorations. Thus, when traveling
through Croatia at Christmas time, you will hear different carols
and be offered a wide array of foods, but all Croats will wish
you a Merry Christmas in the same way—Sretan Bozic.
Traditional Christmas Foods
Much of the Christmas festivities are centered around the table
and food. As it is customary in Catholicism, most
Croats do not eat meat on Christmas Eve; instead they eat fish.
Traditionally on the Dalmatian coast, this meal has consisted
of dried salted cod—bakalar.
For Christmas dinner, the main course may be a roasted suckling pig,
turkey or any other meat, depending on the region of Croatia.
The central part of the Christmas tradition, however, is the fresh
Christmas Eve Bread, or Badnji Kruh, made with honey, nuts and
dried fruit. The Christmas Braid is another Christmas bread.
The dough is made with nutmeg, raisins and almonds, braided into
a wreath and glazed. Many place candles in the
center of the bread and use it as a centerpiece for Christmas
dinner. The bread is left on the table until the Epiphany (January 6),
when it is cut and eaten.
On St. Lucy's Day (December 13), wheat grains are planted in a
round dish or plate and are left to germinate. By Christmas Eve,
the sprouted tender green shoots about eight inches high and are tied
with a red, white and blue ribbon, known as the Croatian trobojnica.
In
the Gorski Kotar region of Croatia, a small glass with water and
oil is placed in the center of the wheat, on which a floating
wick (a dusica—from the word for soul, dusa) is placed.
Its glow can be seen through, rather than above, the wheat. The
glow represents the soul within each of us.
Decorating the Home
At Christmas, Croatian houses are decorated with greenery: ivy, holly, branches of oak or maple, and fir or evergreen trees. Preparations for Christmas, including decorating the Christmas tree, begin on Christmas Eve, called Badnjak. The word "badnjak" itself comes from the word for a yule log, which is brought in and placed on the hearth. Straw, upon which wishes are made, is brought into the house, and candles are lit for the departed. According to tradition, Croats spend Badnjak awake, burning candles and lighting the yule log.
Many families decorate Christmas trees with the Licitar hearts. This unique Croatian decoration is made of edible materials, although it primarily serves as decoration. The dough, mostly shaped in hearts, is colored red. Colorful designs are added to it, including sayings and little mirrors. The Licitar hearts originated in Sestine, near Zagreb where they continue to be produced, although the tradition has spread across Croatia.
The Christmas table is also set on Badnjak. It is covered
with one or several ornamented tablecloths, under which straw
is laid. In the spot where the straw is underneath the tablecloth,
Christmas bread is positioned on top of the cloth. Pastry plaits
decorate the bread, dividing it into four sections. Although the
fruits and nuts, which are set on the table vary in each region,
they include walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, apples, figs, and other
dried fruits. Wine and brandy are set on the table as complimentary
drinks.
The Tradition of Gift Giving
Although gifts are given on Christmas day, this is not the main gift-giving day for Croats, who view Christmas day more as a holy day of spiritual celebration. Children in Croatia receive gifts from saints, depending upon where they live. In southern and northeastern Croatia, St. Lucy traditionally brings gifts to children, while in northern and central Croatia, St. Nicholas brings gifts. The celebration of St. Nicholas Day (December 6) as the main gift-giving holiday of the Christmas season stems from the European Catholic church. In North America and Western Europe, the Evangelical church transferred this tradition to Christmas day, transforming St. Nicholas into Santa Claus. Although Croatia has also adopted the tradition of giving gifts on Christmas day, these gifts are said to be brought by the baby Jesus. During Communist rule in Croatia, when religious holidays were not officially acknowledged, presents were given on New Year's Day by a figure known as Father Frost, although many families privately celebrated the traditional Christian holidays.
According to Croatian tradition, on the eve of St. Nicholas Day,
children polish a pair of boots and place them on a window sill
for Saint Nicholas to fill; however, what they are filled with
depends on how well behaved the child has been. Children
are reminded that instead of candy, fruit and gifts, their boots
could be filled with switches, which may be put to use!
The Christmas festivities officially end on the Epiphany, when
priests visit their parishioners to bless their homes. Families
take down Christmas trees and decorations on that day as well.
Here are recipes for two dishes traditionally served in Croatian homes at Christmas time.
Stuffed Cabbage
2 heads pickled cabbage
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. smoked ham, chopped
1/4 c. smoked bacon, chopped
2. tbsp. flour
1 c. uncooked rice
2 tsp. paprika
1 onion, chopped
1 egg
2 tbsp. oil
1 lb. smoked ham hocks or pork ribs
salt and pepper to taste
Fry bacon in its own fat. Add onion and
saute five minutes. Remove from heat and drain excess fat. Allow
to cool slightly, combine with ground beef, chopped ham, rice,
egg, 1 teaspoon paprika, salt and pepper, remove large outer leaves
of the cabbage, place filling in each leaf and roll up from center
to outer edge. Tuck sides into center to hold roll together.
Cut remaining cabbage into strips. Add another half pound of sauerkraut,
if desired. Place half the sauerkraut in the bottom of a large
pot. Arrange cabbage rolls over sauerkraut. Add smoked ribs or
ham hocks. Cover with remaining sauerkraut. Heat oil and brown
flour in it. Add a teaspoon of paprika and water to make a thick
roux. Cook for 5 minutes. Pour roux over cabbage rolls. Add water
to cover cabbage and simmer over low heat for 1/2 to 2 hours until
rice is fully cooked. Do not stir cabbage rolls while cooking.
Instead, shake pot occasionally to prevent sticking. Transfer
to warm serving dish.
Dalmatian Pot Roast
5 lbs. beef— top round
10 oz. smoked bacon
20. oz onion
8 oz. parsley root
5. oz carrots
4 cloves garlic
10 oz. peeled tomato
10 oz. fresh celery
8 prunes
3 quarts dry red wine
2 tsp. mustard
10 oz. olive oil
bay leaf, rosemary, thyme
salt and pepper to taste
Pre-preparation:
Wash and drain meat. Cut bacon into match-like sticks. Chop onion
and garlic. Cut vegetables into small strips. Pierce beef
with sharp knife and place garlic into and around meat. Place
beef into large pan, cover with wine. Add chopped onion, thyme,
bay leaf, rosemary, pepper, and cubed celery to meat. Cover pan
and refrigerate for 12 hours.
Preparation:
Heat oil and place beef (only) into pan with oil. Brown meat briskly
and remove from pan. Add contents from marinade into oil and fry
briskly. Add browned meat, peeled tomatoes, prunes, and remaining
items into pan. Mix and cook for 2-3 hours from a higher to lower
temperature during cooking time. Remove meat and slice. Strain
juice from pan and use as sauce.
Traditional Meals
Christmas Eve:
Christmas Dinner:
Our
Chef
has selected dishes for these meals from different
regions of Croatia. With this sampler, we hope to give you a taste
of diverse culinary traditions found across Croatia.